Bulgaria and its wines: A palatable surprise

 

Getting Ready for Prime Time

While not yet a popular tourism destinations for travelers from the USA, Bulgaria attracted approximately 10 million tourists (2015) from Greece, Romania, Turkey and Russia – accounting for 50 percent of all visitors. Tourism contributed 15 percent to the economy’s GDP and supports 150,000 (2014) jobs. Currently there are 9 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Bulgaria and 14 are on the tentative list.

Hotel, resort and ski developers should take note of this country as a potentially attractive destination for global travelers. At the moment, there are a few branded hotels (i.e., Kempinski, Best Western, Hilton, Novotel, Barceló); however, in a country the size of Pennsylvania there is more than enough room for additional internationally recognized properties.


If you are not quite ready to visit a destination that does not have a Marriott, the country and its culture can be discovered through its wines.

 

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Wines Through the Ages

Grape growing and wine production dates back centuries in Bulgaria and wine, plus beer and grape rakia (fruit brandy with an alcohol content between 40-90 percent) are popular beverages in the country. In the 1980s Bulgaria was the world’s second largest wine producer; however, with the end of communism (and its markets), the industry collapsed.

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At a recent Bulgarian wine event in New York City for writers, sellers and Bulgarian wine producers, the wines were introduced by the two knowledgeable “World Wine Guys,” Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, who claim that the Bulgarian wine scene will be an important part of USA wine sales starting in 2017. Recent land acquisition and investment, the planting of new vineyards, the establishment of small boutique wineries in the South and intensified competition (domestic and export markets) are indications that a strong branded approach to export markets will find a significant customer base.

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Wine Zones

There are five wine regions in Bulgaria:

1. Danubian Plain (North Bulgaria). On the south banks of the Danube and central/western parts of the Danubian Plain growers find temperate continental weather with a hot and sunny summer. Look for Muscat Ottonel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Aligote (white grapes for dry white wine), Pamid (old grape variety used for red wine) and local Gamza (red grape variety).

2. Black Sea (East Bulgaria). Thirty percent of all vines are from the Black Sea region that is characterized by long/mild autumns and encourage accumulation of sugars for fine white wine. Styles include Dimyat (indigenous white grape; wine consumed chilled in summer), Riesling, Muscat Ottonel (white wine grapes used in dessert wines), Ugni Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer and Gewurztraminer.


3. Rose Valley (sub Balkan). Located south of the Balkan Mountains, the Rose Valley is divided into eastern and western sub regions. Styles includes Muscatel, Riesling, Rkatsiteli, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This area includes Sungurlare Valley that is noted for wine from the Red Misket grape variety.

4. Thracian Lowland (South Bulgaria). This area enjoys a temperate climate and is noted for its red wines such as Mavrud, Merlot, Cabernet, Sauvignon, Muscatel and Pamid. The Balkan Mountains block the cold winds from the plains of Russia and the valley drained by the Maritsa River shares a Mediterranean climate with mild, rainy winters and warm, dry summers.

5. Struma River Valley (Southwest Bulgaria). This zone includes the valley of the river Struma in the historical region of Macedonia. While small in size, the area is climatically distinct because of the strong Mediterranean influence from the south. Look for Shiroka Melnishka Loza (red wine grape variety). It is frequently compared to Chateuneuf-du-Pape. This wine was a favorite of British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. The area also produces Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Curated Wine Notes

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1. F2F Chardonnay 2015. 100% Chardonnay from the Thracian Valley

Placement of vines is an important consideration and the vines are separated by 2.5m – allowing for good ventilation and sunshine (vines do not overshadow each other). The soil is rich in carbonates which develops the grapes and the wine. The grapes are fermented in new French oak barrels spending 4 months in the barrel aging on the fine lees (dead yeast cells).

• To the eye, a hint of flaxen gold with a trace of green grass. The nose detects sweet flowers and honey and a richly pleasant hint of earth and gravel. To the palate, a whiff of citrus enhanced by a droplet of vanilla and butter is compelling. A deliciously long finish sends a message of honey suckle. This young but compelling wine pairs well with poached salmon, or quiche with mushrooms.

2. Le Pont Couvert (Covered Bridge) Pinot Noir 2015. 100% Pinot Noir

• To the eye – a very brilliant red (as in ripe strawberries). To the nose – cherries and blueberries with a hint of spice. The palate detects young tannins with an integrated acidity that offsets a very-berry taste. Aged in French oak barrels for 6 months leads this wine to a light but elegant finish. Pair with roast chicken, pates and charcuterie.

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3. Soli Pinot Noir 2014. 100% Pinot Noir. PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). Producer: Thracian Valley. Ageing: 12 months (30 percent in French oak barrels; 70 percent in stainless steel tanks). Awards: Bronze Medal, Global Pinot Noir Masters 2015 (UK), Commended, Decanter world Wine Awards 2015 (UK).

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Edoard Miroglio was originally an Italian textile manufacturer. Today, his award-winning winery is located in Thracian Valley in the village of Elenovo. Under the leadership of winemaker Dessislava Baichevaa and viticulturist Alberto La Rosa, the winery produces elegant Pinot Noir cuvees that age well. The winery is surrounded by vineyards, green lawns and a lake – providing excellent conditions for wines and tourism.

• To the eye, a pale ruby red. The nose picks up the scent of ripe cherries and strawberries, young roses and apples with spice and smoke and a hint of rocks and soil. The palate is happy with light structured tannins and an elegant finish that pairs well with broiled brook trout and beef ragout.

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4. Bio Mavrud & Rubin 2014. Organic. Thracian Valley (PGI) 60% Mavrud, 40% Rubin. Organically grown grapes from the certified vineyards of the winery near Elenovo village. 50% of the blend is aged in oak for 6 months, 70% in botti (French oak, 33 hl capacity) and 30% in Bulgarian oak barrels (500 L).  Awards: Gold Medal – International Organic Wine Awards 2015 (Germany – 93 pt.), Gold Medal Concours Mondial de Bruxelle 2015 (Belgium).

• To the eye, eggplant purple trending to pink. An intense complex and fruity nose with hints of black currants, cherries, blackberries, ripe apples, leather, aging trees, soil and earth with a nod to tobacco. To the palate, a deliciously sour/fruity appeal that offers an elegant and fruity finish. Pair with pasta, pizza, roast beef, and BBQ.

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Bulgarian Association of Independent Winegrowers

Formed to protect the interests of small businesses in grape growing and wine making in Bulgaria, the organization was founded by ten owners of vineyards and wine cellars. Membership is voluntary and has the objective to provide support for smaller businesses in the sector as the National Vine and Wine Chamber only protects the interests of large scale organizations. Membership requirements include vineyard ownership, a licensed wine cellar, annual turnover of BGN 19M and no more than 50 employees. Its priorities include countering the dumping import of grapes from countries outside the EU, which harms local small businesses. It also monitors and controls the authenticity and quality of wine sold in stores domestically. For additional information: baiw.org

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PHOTO: courtesy of Passportdelicious.com

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