Restaurants that are part of a hotel are frequently considered a convenience rather than a gourmet dining destination, however, Randolph’s at the Warwick Hotel distinguishes itself as a really good place for lunch on Manhattan’s Westside.
Curious Name
The restaurant is named for William Randolph Hearst, a Harvard College drop-out who was infamous for his extravagant life-style, trysts, and prejudices. He was also a media-mogul who printed paid-for columns by two European dictators in the 1930s, and flirted with questionable and controversial political leaders.
Moving to Ambiance
If we put politics aside and focus on the dining experience, patrons will be delighted with the traditional and sophisticated interior that creates an atmosphere of a private club. The space definitely offers a quiet oasis in an otherwise chaotic part of Manhattan. While the lunch menu is limited, the selections offer enough choices to satisfy the eclectic mix of tourists and New Yorkers who select Randolph’s for their mid-day meal.
Capricious Service
Guests looking for a table during lunch must have patience as the expected maître d’ meet/greet at the entrance may or may not happen. At a recent visit, I waited at least 10 minutes for the maître d’ (even asked the surly bartender if there was a maître d’). A few potential guests who arrived after I did were so angry with the extended wait for a seat that they left to find lunch elsewhere.
Start with Drinks
Finally seated by a staffer, lunch started with a double scotch and a glass of Loire Valley wine, La Petite Perriere Sauvignon Blanc ($13). The double J&B definitely took the edge off my New York frame of mind, and the Loire Valley wine presented an appealing pale golden tone (trending to a grassy green) to the eye and offered fruity hints of red berries to the palate – perfect beverages for ladies who lunch.
Small Bites
The opening menu options included Crispy Calamari with a spicy tomato sauce ($18), Chicken Wings – Buffalo or Asian Style ($18) and Mini Cheeseburgers ($18). My colleague and I shared the very delicious Tuna Tartare with Avocado, Wakame, Tomato and Crispy Wonton ($26). The tuna was fresh and fleshy and the Wakame and crispy wontons delivered the right amount of heat and spice to make the selection memorable.
A guest from Florida, seated at a nearby table ordered the Chicken Quesadilla with Jack Cheese, Scallions, Tomatoes, Onions, Peppers, Sour Cream, Guacamole and Pico de Gallo ($18) and graciously agreed to share her enjoyable lunch for the story.
Moving Onward
For farm to table diners the Carnaroli Risotto Primavera with Summer Vegetables, Tomato, Basis, Asparagus Coulis ($23) is a viable option.
Carnivores will be very happy with the Steak (Prime Hanger) Frites with French Fries ($23) as it is a delicious way to munch through lunch. The steak was beautifully dark and crusty on the outside and a lovely rosy red in the middle.
Prefer a gift from the sea? Although the Atlantic Salmon ($26) was slightly dry, the steamed vegetables still had a bit of crunch, and Basmati Rice was flavorful… a bit of sliced lemon could have made it perfect.
Dessert
The dessert menu is very limited and selections are off-limits for lactose intolerant and sugar free diners. The sweet options are cheese cake, crème Brule, chocolate mousse cake and ice cream or sorbet.
I do wish F&B Managers would recognize that the world is populated by people who are lactose intolerant and accept the fact that desserts can be delicious without butter and sugar.
The only way to end an otherwise enjoyable lunch was with a double decafe espresso.
Recommendation
Randolph’s is a very pleasant dining option and perfect for a healthful break. We had a terrific wait-person attending the table and recommend you ask to be seated at Laura’s station.
Open from Noon – 1 AM with dinner service from 5-11 PM: 65 West 54th Street, New York, NY. [email protected]
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